Hi folks, gauges work fine and will be a big help when pulling a load uphill to prevent engine damage, along with a graph of psi/temp at givin speeds which should bring a level of consistancy that can be monitored over time. Since paying off the car 2 years ago I have spent nothing at the dealer but did visit them to get a power window motor replaced on warrenty. And shortly after my last visit The maintenance light when on and we all know that is just to get you into the dealer to spend money, so I asked them to turn it off when they were fixing the window but low and behold I got the car back and the light was still on. Its these types of things that draw me away from the dealer and on to other sources that can actually provide help when needed. So i find a blog that tells one how to turn off the light and this should be good for years 2001-2005 at a minimum and possibly other years and makes of Honda. First you hold in the trip meter as if to reset it, turn the key to on and wait 20-30 seconds, start the car and the light should be off. Just repete every time the light comes on.
Having 75,000 miles and the orignal brake pads I learned that soon as one of the pads gets to 1/8 of an inch you should replace the pads so that is primarly what this post is about and I hope to work out the bugs with the video thing and want to do a brake fluid change along with the pads but the one man brake bleeder needs more parts before it will work properly ( its from China) so that will come next. I took one picture that will should guide you through this procedure. First remove the tire and have a beefed up coat hanger handy to hang the caliper off the coilspring to avoid damageing the brake line. With a 12 mm socket loosen and remove the top and bottom bolts, they are short. Then lift the caliper off the pads by pulling it outwards and hanging it on the spring above. Remove the pads by prying them towards or away from you as the picture indicates. Next using the 1/8 inch pad, they can wear differently and you will need all of a 3" clamp with the 1/8 pad reversed to compress the cylandar so you will have room for the new pads. You will have to open the cap on the master cylandar to allow fluid to flow back into the reservoir, In addition as I do oil changes or rotate tires I take note of all the rubber boots that I can see and spray them with a preserver so as to extend the life of the boot and the part it protects. I notice a thin boot around the caliper cylandar which has dirt around it and is dry to the touch from being close to a source of heat, the only other boot to have this feeling was the CV boot located closest to the engine and exaust and he was a thick boot so I can see that with out proper attention this caliper is designed to leak and probably be replaced more frequently than is actually necessary but Honda needs to make money some how so I was not at all suprised. Clean and spray the boot and put a small amount of lubricant on the metal part of the caliper so it won't squeek under brakeing. About 1/2 way through check to make certain the boot is retracting properly, my wasn't and you can't put the new pads on like this or you will pinch the boot and create a leak. Once retracted install the new pads using the proctive pad plate provided with the pads and saving the old caliper cylandar plate inbetween the pad and the cylandar. (you can see this part in the photo below the caliper and above the tilted shoe.) Once the pads are in place replace the caliper by compressing the outlets where the bolts go into and fitting on the caliper just as you took it off. Tighten the bolts put the brake fluid gasket and cap back on start the car and pump the brakes till firmness returns to the pedal. Under the best of conditions we would be replaceing the fluid also but that will be shown next time along with inspecting the rear brakes and the tools required for that.
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