Thursday, October 22, 2009

ADDING GAUGES























Since the car has been paid off I have not given Mr. dealer so much as a dime, and that was about 22 months ago. More importantly the bumper to bumper warrenty expires this January and from then on it its into the wild blue yonder and I couldn't be more confident about entering that wild blue yonder than I am right now.





Before you is a dismantled oil filter, as I have done since the car was new and I am happy to report that there was not any significant wear associated with the rings or bearings. This is important because it is your only way to determine if the lubricants are working properly and with 73,500 miles on the car it performs exactly as it did the 1st day I drove it.





I am in the process of installing an oil pressure gauge, for $43 and tax on $17 of that this gauge can tell alot about engine condition for many miles in the future. By watching the gauge closely now when the car is still like new I can head off future problems when the gauge starts to act differently at 2,3,or 4 hundred thousand miles. Its a direct pressure gauge and I taped all fittings to ensure a leak free system. The donut is the part between the filter and block and is where the reading is drawn from. Oil flows from the oil pump to the outside of the filter, then through the paper core and back to the block through the center hole. It then procedes to the crankshaft and camshaft where it returns to the oil pan where it is picked up by the pump again. By splitting the fins of the paper core you can observe any contaminants the core has picked up and if the car is older just do the camshaft cover test mentioned on an eariler post to determine engine wear. If experience is any guide the oil pressure gauge will read about 5 bar or 75 psi when the motor is cold and just started, it should then drop to about 4 bar or 60 psi once the oil has been heated, it could drop to 1 bar at idle depending on the type of filter you have because that is where much of your oil pressure is derived, the rest is the pressure it takes to get the crankshaft and camshaft lubricated. So far the cost per mile is 24.6 cents and the cost per day is $7.30, not including gas and oil, both of these will decrease over time,

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

AIR CABIN FILTER REPLACEMENT



Hey there people here's one you probably do not know about, for more information visit mvcproducts.com and get this part at a reduced cost.

Thursday, April 24, 2008

A MOTOR STORY

Greetings folks, This is a story about excess, we were buying 4 cylandar diesel long blocks for $ 100 a piece and taking home heating oil purchaced at 69 cents a gallon bulk, and experimenting, soon we were able to jam a motor into a 1982 volkswagen vanagon and put it to the test. And test we did, motor after motor, oil after oil, trailor after trailor,I found a good combination of both. Motor was running good and mileage was impressive too.
One day I was doing my laundry and I added some bleach to my detergent, the liquid mix turned from blue to red, a chemical reaction I said, and the cloths turned out smellin super clean for days. I said what if I add this to my fuel? So i did, the mileage increased dramitically, I drove from northern connecticut on a cold 10 degree night to washington dc in eight hours on one tank in my 4 cylandar diesel van. I was happy, till the oil pressure started dropping to zero bar and the hydrolic lifters started barking. I later found I needed a turned crank another $ 1000 dollars. I went shopping for a new car. Its a great idea as long as your car is able to handle the extremes, but most today are not, a lesson learned. Next time we shall have a story about filters.

Saturday, February 2, 2008

A CORRECT FOUR CYLINDAR DESIGN



This is a picture of a 2003 honda civic engine manifold.

AN ENGINES PURPOSE IN LIFE

Happy groundhog day, The life line of your car is under the hood. Its called an engine. If you look at any parking lot in america you will see that it has been trashed by engines that leak oil and people who add and spill oil on site. Lets examine the reasons behind that. We know that friction creates heat, and heat breaks down parts. the more heat the faster the breakdown. Heat from friction in an engine comes from the moving parts, the piston rings and the crankshaft bearings. If you want to more about how an engine works click on this link and you can learn more.http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine9.htm Most of todays cars are primarly cooled by water and a radiator, but there is much more we can do to transfer heat away from its source. Back to the rings and bearings, the source of friction and heat. A new gas engine piston will compress the cylinder to maybe 125-150 psi, pounds per square inch, a diesel can reach 500 psi. But if proper lubrication is not applied the friction from the rings will slowly wear the rings outer surface and the compression will leak by the rings and into the crankcase. This can occur very early in the life span of a car, or can be delayed inevitably, here is how to determine the rate of leakdown in your cars engine. This is a simple and effective test, you start the car and open the hood, while the car is running you open the oil cap slow like, because if their is alot of ring leaking, exhuast and oil mist or drops will accompany the fountain of air created by the leakdown. If there is no leakdown then you may see a drop or two of oil slung up by a cam shaft or lifters but no air will accompany the drops. Heat created by crankshaft bearings is also a major source of oil loss. The seals used to contain the oil in the crankcase are subject to heat stress, they are at the ends of the crankshaft which is attached to the piston rod bearings. This is a major source of heat generation, oil passes through this connection to lubricate but nothing is done to cool this connection in 90% of cars on the road today. The other 10% do a thing called "turning the crankshaft" This involves shaving the crankshaft at the rod bearing so that a greater amount of lubricant can pass through the connection creating less heat and extending the life span of the precious seals at the ends of the crankshaft. Here is a simple test to determine if your car has a "turned crankshaft". Not all of you will be able to perform this test because you need a good hill 2000-4000 feet of elevation and a temp. needle on your dashboard, if you do not have a needle but just a light to indicate overheating, you are already behind the eight ball. Start the car and let it warm up good, get to the base of the hill and observe the needle, as you climb the needle will rise and when you come down the hill the needle will fall. If you have a turned crankshaft the needle will not move at all. There is still more we can do to eliminate heat and friction, better lubrication and design. Regular motor oil can not withstand the riggers of todays engines for very long, it boils and breaks down quickly, it thickens in the cold and provides no lubrication when the parts need it most. The oil heats and flows from the friction created by rubbing parts, improper lubrication leads to an early retirement for almost all engines. Here is how to lubricate your engine properly. This is best applied to a new engine because there is no wear on the parts, but can improve the performance and longevity of a used engine. To insure that this is done properly you will have to change the oil yourself or trust a person to do it for you. If you have to add oil regularly this may not be cost effective. ( As of 11-10-2009 the formula for superior lubrication has been removed in lieu of a business opporunity.) This will strenthen the oil and provide superior lubrication extending the life span of your engine. There is one further thing we can do to exahust heat from the engine. Most of the heat in an engine is created from the combustion of fuel in the cylinders and is vented through the exhuast. The exhuast manifold is probably the hottest part of the whole engine and heat build up will cause problems for anything located near the exhuast, starters, gaskets, nuts and bolts, ect. So in the design stage we can locate the exhaust manifold where it can be directly vented most efficiently. This is where the 4 cylinder car will out shine its compitition, The v-6 and v-8, whose manifolds can not be manipulated to take full advantage of a cooling source easily. The best method to vent this manifold is to place it in front of the engine where there is plenty of wind to cool it down. In the next blog i will show a picture of a car that has all the properties listed above and after that a video blog showing a healthy engine along with an oil change.

Friday, February 1, 2008

ABOUT CARS

There is no doubt that if you want to thrive in the future, you will have to be the best at whatever it is that you do, and cars are no execption. If you can afford to buy a new car every 3 years then this blog is not for you, but if you need a car that will last 20-25 or more years then continue to read on. With the cost of oil continually rising and the cost of repairing cars and engines equally high, the need for a reliable 4 cylindar car will be greater in the future, and here is why. I look around and even in the poorest sections of the country i see almost all new cars, 8 years and newer. What happened to the old ones? If you can keep the body and engine in good health, the rest of the car should be easy enough to maintain even if you are not a mechamic. The body is relatively easy to maintain, first don't hit anything and don't let anything hit you. Once you have bent sheetmetal you have weakened it and that area is subject to early decay, secondly if you are in a salty area you must clean the car every so often or that will increase the rate of decay especially the bottom. With these 2 things in mind you should be able to keep the body of the car intact for many years at a low cost. Tomorrow we shall discuss the engine.